Saturday, November 28, 2009

Schoolhouse Rock





In all my manic preparations for the Peru trip, I neglected to mark an important chapter in the lives of my children. My daughters performed in Christian Youth Theater's production of Schoolhouse Rock.

Schoolhouse Rock is a classic piece of Generation X. Many of us grew up in front of the television, and in the days before 24/7 cartoon networks, Saturday mornings provided the only reliable outlet for cartoon entertainment. If not for Schoolhouse Rock, how else would we have learned the Preamble of the Constitution or the proper function of an adverb?

Through the CYT musical production, now my children get to experience a cherished part of my childhood.



Dakota performed as a member of the stage crew.



"I'm just a bill..."



McKenna performed as the Sun in the song "Inter-planet Janet."



Whitney performed as the Earth in the song "Inter-planet Janet."







"My Hero Zero..."

Friday, November 27, 2009

Extreme Peru: Part Fifteen



El Centro Histórico

This is my favorite picture of the Peru trip. Sheli and I visited the Plaza Mayor in the historic center of Lima. As we approached the cathedral, a young newly married couple passed by. I stopped them and asked, "Will you permit me a photograph?" They kindly agreed and posed for this picture. It was perfect.

The rest of these pictures are from the Plaza Mayor.





The facade of the church.







Local people enjoying the afternoon.





The Government Palace.







The streets near Plaza Mayor.



Sheli taking pictures at Plaza Mayor.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Extreme Peru: Part Fourteen



On the last day, we also had the opportunity to visit an artist market. We found all kinds of great deals, including gold and silver. We also got to practice our bargaining skills.





We passed this church as we looked for the market.



Extreme Peru: Part Thirteen



On our last day of travel, we had the opportunity to visit El Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología, e Historia del Perú (The National Museum of the Archaeology, Anthropology, and History of Peru), located in Plaza Bolívar. The museum is housed inside the former residence of the Viceroy of Spain. In this picture, Sheli is standing next to an ancient stone carving.



A woman watering flowers in Plaza Bolívar.



A carved tree trunk in Plaza Bolívar.



Another carved tree trunk in Plaza Bolívar.



Plaza Bolívar.



Inside the Viceroy's residence.



Ancient Peruvian pottery.



The founding of Lima.



The Viceroys of Spain.



The Incan Kings.

Extreme Peru: Part Twelve



Avenida Sucre

The Church of the Nazarene in Lima is located on Avenida Sucre. Between sessions, I had the opportunity to snap a few random shots of the street. In the photo above, my friend Sheli is marching off to lunch. ;)







Extreme Peru: Part Eleven



Extreme Continues

We left Puerto Maldonado and flew back to Lima. After many delays, we arrived at the local Church of the Nazarene at about sunset.







Just as we did in Puerto Maldonado, we facilitated a workshop with another group of 40/40 missionaries. This session was also a powerful experience.

Puerto Maldonado



During my stay at Puerto Maldonado, I had the chance to ride a motorcycle. Those things scare me to death, but I just had to face the fear and go for a ride around town. Besides, it only cost one Sol to go just about anywhere. It's hard to really visualize the dynamics of that place, so I posted this video.

Extreme Peru: Part Ten



On my last morning in Puerto Maldonado, I got up early to see some of the town. I hailed a motorcycle, paid one Sol (about 30 cents), and rode down to Plaza de Armas, the main square.



The Catholic Church...



The Plaza de Armas had all kinds of public service announcements hand painted onto little signs. The taller of these announcements says, "Don't step on me. I also have life." The second one says, "Practice your good actions through your example."





The Madre de Dios River...



Ferrying cars across the river...



Madre de Dios means Mother of God, which is the namesake of the river and the region.

Extreme Peru: Part Nine



The Training Experience

In Puerto Maldonado, we spent two days facilitating a training experience with the 40/40 missionaries. This event was the heart of our purpose for visiting Peru.

In my experience, these kinds of trainings open a space for people to share at a deep level. I think people crave connection with others, without pretense or masks, but our habitual way of relating often prevents us from seeing our true potential for creating meaningful community. Social conditioning tells us to be nice or to keep the peace by hiding our true selves. Maybe this is appropriate in some circumstances, but in the big picture, true community begins with honesty.

Likewise, conflict is a natural part of community building. Most of us resist conflict, and yet the very things that afflict us may also hold the greatest creative energy.

It's an honor for me to work with a group and to witness their growth process, through conflict, pain, and ultimately toward honesty and healing. Once given the opportunity, these wonderful people embraced their challenges and created a new space of mutual understanding and support.

Extreme Peru: Part Eight



Extreme Nazarene

So far I've blogged about the scenery, the hotel accommodations, the transportation, and most certainly our misadventures in far-flung airports throughout South America.

Now it's time to address the reason for my trip.

About fifteen years ago, I met Sheli Yerkes (Gartman) when we both attended Spectrum Trainings, Inc. in Boise, Idaho. Spectrum was a powerful personal growth experience for both of us, and since that time, we staffed a number of trainings together. After Spectrum closed, we also co-created our own workshop experiences.

A few months ago, Sheli called to say that she planned to facilitate a series of workshops in Peru. "Do you know anyone who speaks Spanish?" she asked.

"Are you kidding?" I said. "Spanish is my thing."

That conversation opened a door for us to create a new workshop experience in Peru.

Sheli is a member of the Nazarene Church. The Nazarenes have created a missionary program called "Extreme Nazarene" (hence the title of my blog posts). The organization creates partnerships between missionaries from the United States and missionaries from the host country for about 27 months. Of course, they evangelize in their chosen areas, but they also engage in charitable work, as I mentioned before.

Initially, I had some reservations, especially because I'm not Nazarene. But Sheli supported me through my decision-making process.



The missionaries live together in a house connected to the church. The 40/40 sign on the building has reference to the name or title given to the missionaries. They often introduce themselves as, "My name is ____, I am a 40/40 missionary."



When we arrived, a recent rainfall had flooded the church and living area with water. This became a serious problem for the septic system. Quite honestly, I'm not sure how they plan to resolve this situation.





I love taking pictures of the way people naturally live in their environments, like these pictures showing the laundry hanging out to dry, or the shoes piled up outside the door.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

The Fox







I'm taking a brief rest from reporting my Peru trip.

Rhonda and I took the kids to McCall, Idaho for a family reunion. As her family arrived, a fox wandered into the yard and nearly walked up to us. No doubt someone has been feeding him. We didn't give him anything to eat, but we did get some wonderful pictures.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Extreme Peru: Part Seven



La Cabaña Quinta

In Puerto Maldonado we stayed in a hotel called La Cabaña Quinta (the Fifth Cabin). For being a somewhat rustic looking town, the hotel was quite nice. It had an internet connection and a nice restaurant. I was quite impressed.

The photograph above shows the main entrance to the hotel.



The walkway connecting the main lobby with the guest rooms.



The view from my room.



The view from the front of the hotel.



The electric shower in my room.

Ah yes... what happy memories I have of the electric showers in Guatemala. At least this shower has a plastic casing around the live wires to minimize the danger of getting a good shock.

Extreme Peru: Part Six





Puerto Maldonado

The next morning, we got up early and caught our next flight to Puerto Maldonado, located in the Peruvian Amazon. The photographs above show the jungle during our arrival by air.







Motorcycles provide the primary means of transportation within the city of Puerto Maldonado. Many motocycles will stop to give you a ride and take you anywhere in town for only s/.1 (One Sol). Other taxi-like vehicles are really just motorcycles that have been converted into a three-wheel thing with a two-person back seat. Those ones charge s/.2 (Two Soles) to go anywhere in the city.

Extreme Peru: Part Five



Lima

After endless flights, missed connections, and horrendous layovers, we finally landed in Lima. I don't even know how long it actually took us to get there, after we consider the many delays we faced.

Prior to arriving in Lima, we were told to arrange ground transportation through a company called Taxi Green. They operate a counter inside the airport where customers pay before going outside. By paying in advance, we apparently avoid potential conflicts with the driver. In a worst case scenario, some people have even been assaulted by cab drivers. The safest bet is to always call in advance from a recognized company, like Taxi Green.

We found a relatively inexpensive hotel and got the first restful night's sleep in several days. The photograph above is a view from my window at night.

Extreme Peru: Part Four



Buenos Aires

Our condition improved greatly as soon as we boarded our connecting flight to Buenos Aires, Argentina. We transferred to a non-Delta flight and found the level of comfort and service was much better.

As we descended into Buenos Aires, I was impressed by the enormity of the city. A mass of buildings and urbanization stretched out for miles, captured in the photograph above. The culture was also quite different, much more European and sophisticated than other places in Latin America. We had a three hour layover in the airport terminal, which actually reminded me more of an upscale shopping mall. All the big brands were represented, like Gucci and Calvin Klein. The whole terminal smelled to me like sexy men's cologne, like something out of Abercrombie and Fitch. It was all fascinating to be sure, but not really my thing. I would have rather gone out to meet people in the country.

We stayed long enough to browse the mall and check email in an internet cafe. Afterwards, we finally boarded our last connection to Lima.

Extreme Peru: Part Three


Rosi is a fiery, independent, and energetic young woman from Peru.


Carlos and Mirza wait patiently in the São Paulo terminal.

Community

Before embarking on my journey to Peru, I was selected to join this year's cohort of the Leadership Development Program, sponsored by the Community Colleges of Spokane. After an opening retreat, we will gather one day a month to address issues of leadership, community, and professional renewal.

As part of our leadership curriculum, we have examined the process of community formation, development, and growth. The LDP facilitators presented the concept of "communitas," which implies a movement from chaos to order when people join together into a cohesive group. The process generally follows a somewhat organic evolution from one stage to the next, but this does not mean to suggest an easy transition by any means. As groups form, conflicts invariably arise as individual members struggle to identify roles and procedures.

My trip through Brazil provided a microcosm of this phenomenon.

When we missed our connection in Atlanta, five of us were diverted through Brazil en route to Lima, Peru. Before that time, we were basically strangers to one another, but for all intents and purposes, we became a tiny community that experienced all the stages of group development.

As I mentioned before, we met Rosi just after we missed our connection.

A few minutes later, I also met Carlos and Mirza at the Delta gate. They were attempting to resolve the same situation with a Delta agent, and perhaps faced the same level of indifference that we experienced. Carlos spoke with a heavy Spanish accent and the agent seemed to struggle to understand. Assuming that Carlos may not speak English very well, I offered myself as a translator. Carlos turned to me with a hard, red face and barked, "I have been an English teacher in New York City for the last 17 years. I don't need your help!" His wife Mirza smiled apologetically, shrugged her shoulders, and then turned back toward the agent.

I was stunned. I offered my help and had been totally rebuffed. "How rude!" I thought. As far as I was concerned, I didn't care care to ever see that man again. But fate had another agenda. When we arrived in São Paulo, the five of us were grouped together because we all needed to catch the same connecting flight to Lima.

In São Paulo, a Delta agent met us at the gate and escorted us past customs to reach the next gate in time. We in fact arrived as other passengers were still boarding, but the airline would not allow us to board. We were dumbfounded! We had boarding passes in hand and literally saw the plane through the the glass, but they would NOT allow us to board. The man behind the counter claimed that we would put the flight over-weight. "Are you kidding?" we asked in disbelief, "We have boarding passes." The agent argued in our behalf for about 15 minutes until the plane pushed away from the gate and flew away.

As shock settled in, the agent said, "Let me talk with my supervisor and we'll see how to connect you to Lima. I'll be back in 20 minutes."

After an hour, we still hadn't heard anything. Another hour passed and another. Shock turned to despair as no one had any idea what would happen next, or if perhaps the agent had forgotten us or gone home for the day. Soon, our despair turned to anger. We couldn't find anyone that knew anything about our connection. In fact, we couldn't even find a Delta office anywhere in the airport. And of course, we couldn't leave the terminal because we didn't have the proper Brazilian visa.

Our little group descended into conflict. Carlos and I had already bumped heads over my assumption that he didn't speak English. Now our group was arguing about the best way to find a connection to Lima. Carlos and Mirza argued in favor of waiting. "When the agent returns, we want her to find us here."

Rosi, always the spitfire, argued for a more pro-active approach. "The agent has forgotten us. I say we find another agent to get us a ticket to Lima." The three of them argued until Rosi finally decided to strike out on her own. Carlos and Mirza sat quietly in the terminal. Sheli and I took a compromise approach. We took turns waiting at the gate while the other tried to find someone with answers.

After a while, it became clear that no answers were forthcoming. The Delta agent was no where to be seen, and no one could tell us anything. Even Rosi returned to our little group frustrated and angry. After a few minutes, the argument turned away from the issue at hand, and delved into something completely unrelated. Rosi got angry at Carlos for his insistence on speaking English, even when he was clearly a native Spanish speaker. They also argued over the role of women in Peruvian society. Carlos said that women receive better treatment in the United States, but Rosi insisted that the only way for the social situation to improve was for Peruvians to stay in Peru and MAKE changes happen.

Finally Rosi demanded to know why Carlos refused to speak Spanish. He said, "I was born in Peru, but now I am a US citizen. I am an American and I am proud of my new country. I am thankful for everything the United States has given me, and I will show my gratitude by speaking English." As he spoke, his face softened.

I was stunned. Back in Atlanta, I judged Carlos as a hot-headed ingrate, but now I began to see him in a new light.

After waiting five hours in the São Paulo terminal, the agent finally returned with tickets in hand. Unfortunately, they were not tickets directly to Lima, but rather we had to pass through Buenos Aires, Argentina, and then continue on to the final leg of our journey. She had also arranged for us to take a shower in a micro-hotel inside the terminal. She gave each one of us a voucher and then she handed me a collective boarding pass with all five names. That boarding pass formalized our connection as a cohesive group, if only for the purpose of getting to Lima.

The group dynamic shifted after that moment. The scuffles and conflicts ended and we began to identify clear roles for one another. I took care of the boarding pass, while others organized a meeting time after our showers. When someone expressed frustration, Carlos took the role of comforter-in-chief. He became the wise, re-assuring father figure guiding us all. By the time we boarded our connecting flight to Argentina, we started looking out for one another and expressing concern. We became a community.

Extreme Peru: Part Two



Dream World

Several hours after departing Atlanta en route to São Paulo, I sat upright in my seat and stared into the blackness outside my window. I struggled to find a restful position, but instead found a sharp pain in my neck. Sleep deprivation began to alter my perceptions and send me into a parallel world. My internal reality spilled over onto the scenes outside my window.

The boundary between the ocean and sky blended in perfect darkness, while a scattering of stars sparkled above me. In my waking-dream state, I imagined the stars were distant torches on the shores of another world.

And then I saw a single point of light looking up from the sea. Was it an island? A boat? Once again, my altered perceptions created a story. In my waking-dream, I imagined a single house surrounded by coconut trees, white sand beaches, and coral reefs. A man lived all alone on that little island, hundreds of miles from the nearest neighbor. In that very moment, he tossed in his bed because in his dream he felt me watching from the plane 30,000 feet above.

As I envisioned the man tossing in his sleep, a feeling of sadness washed over me. Suddenly I was the man on the island, totally isolated and alone, while my heart ached for my children.

This altered form of reality persisted as long as the darkness remained, even as we passed the brilliant lights of Caracas, Venezuela, and the blackest jungles of interior Brazil. But in the end, the sun rose over the eastern horizon and dispelled the haze of my sleep-deprivation.

As we landed in São Paulo, Sheli and I looked forward with positive expectations for an easy connection to our next flight. By the way, the photograph at the beginning of this post is a scene of São Paulo as our plane landed.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Extreme Peru: Part One



A Process in Surrender

Before this trip, I never had a bad airport experience. Perhaps my luck changed, or perhaps the statistical law of averages simply drew my number for something different.

My flights were supposed to follow a relatively easy series of connections from Spokane to Salt Lake City, Salt Lake City to Atlanta, and finally Atlanta to Lima, Peru. The final segment was planned as a straight-shot, six-hour flight that would have gotten us to Lima just before midnight of the same day. No problem, right?
Our luck began to spoil in Salt Lake City.

Sheli and I arrived in Salt Lake from different flights, but we would travel together for the remainder of the trip. We boarded our connecting flight to Atlanta filled with excitement for the adventures yet to come. But we never guessed the ordeal we would have to endure before our arrival in Peru.

A few minutes after the airline boarded everyone onto the Atlanta flight, they announced a gate change. Some mechanical error had occurred, so they filed everyone off the plane and onto a different, smaller aircraft. We had a full flight, so some people lost their connections altogether, but the airline seemed to understand the special predicament of those connecting to Peru. We thought they were getting us to
Atlanta as quickly as possible, with just enough time to make our connection.

But once we boarded the second aircraft, they discovered a thin layer of frost on the wings, so then we had to wait for the de-icers to do their job.

Up to this point, no one can be blamed for the problems we encountered. Mechanical errors happen all the time, and certainly the weather does not accommodate human schedules. For me, the real human problems began once we arrived in Atlanta.

As the aircraft made its final descent into Atlanta, the captain announced that our arrival would occur only minutes before our scheduled departure to Lima. When Sheli and I explained our situation to the flight attendant, she smiled and said, “Oh don’t worry about that. You’re not the only ones on this flight making a connection to Lima. The captain has already called ahead and instructed the other flight to wait for you.” She told us to go directly to the ticket counter where a new boarding pass would be issued.

The plane landed and we did exactly as the flight attendant instructed. A woman at the ticket counter gave us a new boarding pass and told us to run to the next gate. We had only gotten a few yards when another passenger stopped us. “The plane left,” she said in Spanish.

“How do you know?” I asked.

“Because I’m making the same connection and the airline told me the plane has already gone,” Rosi was the name of the woman who said this. Her name is important because she appears in the story later.

“Why would they tell us something different?” I asked. My trust had not yet been shaken. But sure enough, the reader board indicated that the flight to Lima had indeed departed on the original schedule. They had not waited at all.

Sheli and I returned to the ticket counter, with anxiety and betrayal beginning to build. The ticket agent looked positively frazzled, but she politely informed us that she would print us a new itinerary that we would take to our original gate. “I’m sure they’ll get you on the next flight,” she said. We thanked her and continued onward.

But when I looked at the document she printed, no gate was listed. We finally had to stop at an electronic kiosk where we scanned the form. The faceless computer then spit out a boarding pass for our new flight to São Paulo, Brazil. “This has to be a mistake,” I said. We tried to get a flesh and blood human being to give us an answer, but every agent we found told us we had to proceed to the gate indicated on the boarding pass.

We finally arrived at our new gate and stood in line to speak with yet another agent.

The woman at the gate was having a bad day. As she helped the people ahead of us, she stood with her cell phone wedged between her ear and her shoulder. She hardly even looked at the customers as she complained to someone about working at this particular station. “That’s rah-t,” she whined into the phone, “I ain’t ever workin’ this gate agin. It’s ba-ad.” We must have interrupted her call, because she seemed put-out when we demanded her full attention. She glared at us as she ended her call and began typing into the computer.

After several minutes, she said there was no mistake. We had to catch a connecting flight from the airport in São Paulo to Lima. Sheli and I pushed her to find a different flight, perhaps through someplace closer like Panama or Ecuador, but there was nothing. “This is the only flight,” she said.

I thought I could accept the change, but then the same woman made an announcement over the PA system requesting that all US passengers going to Brazil present their tourist visas for inspection at the gate. I got in line again to inform the woman that we did not have tourist visas. She looked at me down her nose and said, “If you ain’t got no visa, you ain’t goin’ to Brazil. Period.”

“How could you expect us to have a visa?” I asked, “We were supposed to go to Peru, not Brazil.”

“Don’t matter,” she said, “If you ain’t got no visa, you ain’t gettin’ on this plane.”

At that point, I thought one of us was going to blow a fuse. “How do you expect us to get a visa when the plane is boarding in just a few minutes?” Sheli demanded, “Didn’t Delta consider that before they routed us through Brazil?”

The woman seemed to miss the point. “You should not have gotten a ticket to Brazil if you didn’t plan on getting the visa,” she said, “I’m sorry, but I cannot allow you to board this plane.”

“And what about our connection?” Sheli asked, “This was Delta’s choice, not ours.”
From the tone of the argument, I think she actually planned to let us miss the flight.

Finally, I jumped in, “Are you sure that we need a visa if we are only making a connection? I always thought the visa was necessary only to leave the airport.”
“I’ll find out,” she said and walked away. About ten minutes later, she returned and said that we could indeed board the plane without a visa.

By then, Sheli had noticed the timing of our flight. Instead of our original six hour plan to Lima, we would have to take a nine hour flight to São Paulo before we even got to transfer to the final flight to Lima. By the time we arrived, we would miss our connection to Puerto Maldonado. When Sheli brought this new realization back to the agent, I thought the agent was going to blow a fuse. She said, “Look, your connection happens through a different airline. We can’t control that. Delta Airlines has agreed to get you to Lima and we will get you there.”

“But you have forced us to miss our connection. Once we arrive in Lima we’ll be stranded.”

She was unmoved. “Delta will fill its obligation to get you to Lima. What you do after that is your problem.”

In the end, we boarded the plane en route to São Paulo, Brazil hoping for a safe and timely connection to our final destination. With all the anxiety, frustration, and uncertainty of our day, Sheli attempted to offer some comfort in the midst of our powerlessness. “This is an exercise in surrender,” she stated as we flew into the unknown.

Monday, November 16, 2009

South America

Where do I begin?

For the last two days, I have been in transit to Lima, Peru; however, Delta Airlines has cancelled almost every connecting flight. We were supposed to fly directly from Atlanta to Lima in a six hour flight, but we arrived late from Salt Lake City and missed our connection. Rather than get us a hotel and put us on the first flight the next morning, they decided to divert us through Sao Paulo, Brazil. The customer service only got worse as the hours progressed into days.

The flight from Altanta to Sao Paulo lasted a whole nine hours, over the the Carribbean Sea, the Amazon Jungle, and half of the South American continent. Once we arrived in Sao Paulo, we waited another 6 or 7 hours for Delta to decide where to send us next.

It would have been nice to see the sights, but the Brazilian government would not allow us to leave the terminal without purchasing a tourist visa for more than $100.

By this time, we were exhausted and cranky; neither of us had slept more than an hour or two, but I guess the positive side of this whole nightmare is that I got to practice my Portuguese for the first time in real life. I have been studying Portuguese online for the last three or four weeks. Actually, I was surprised how much I was able to understand.

The airline finally decided to allow us to continue our journey to Lima, but they diverted us once again through Buenos Aires, Aregentina. Buenos Aires! I am posting this blog right now from the airport in Buenos Aires.

When we left, I had no idea we would eventually see two states (Utah and Georgia) and three countries (Brazil, Argentina, and Peru). Amazing.

These experience has been an exercise in patience and surrender. I wonder what other lessons I can find to avoid going insane from exhaustion, frustration, and repeated delays.
Copyright © 2008 Barry G. Moses; All Rights Reserved.